Process and apparatus for producing novelty yarns



R. CHATIN April 28, 1970 PROCESS AND APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING NOVELTYYARNS .4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Sept. 5, 1968 INVENTOR REMY CHATIN BY MATTORNEYS April 28, 1970 v R. CHATIN 3,503,339

PROCESS AND APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING NOVELTY YARNS Filed Sept. 5, 1968 .4Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENT OR REMY CHATIN- April 28, 1970 R. CHATIN 3,508,389

PROCESS AND APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING NOVELTY YARNS Filed Sept. 5, 1968 .4Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR REMY CHAT] N BY i W ATTORNEYS April 28, 1970 R.CHATIN PROCESS AND APPARATUS FOR. PRODUCING NOVELTY YARNS Filed Sept.:3, 1968 .4 Sheets-Sheet 4 mvsmon REMY CHATIN FIG. 4

W MW

ATTORNEYS United States Patent Office 3,508,389 Patented Apr. 28, 1970ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE An improved process and apparatus forproducing novelty yarns, i.e. of the boucl, undulated or knop typewherein a false twist is applied to an assembly of a core yarn and aneffect yarn overfed relatively to the core yarn with subsequent bindingwith a binder yarn before disappearance of the false twist, theimprovement compris ing binding said assembly of core yarn and effectyarn with the binder yarn at the moment of locking of the false twist.

The present invention relates to a process and apparatus for producingnovelty yarns; more particularly, the present invention is directed to anovel process and apparatus for producing novelty yarns, i.e. of theboucl, undulatedor knop type for example through assembly of a core yarnand an effect yarn by false twisting, with subsequent binding of theassembly with a binder yarn.

A process for the production of nove ty yarns, e.g. of the boucl,undulated or knop type for example, is shown in French Patent 1,493,577,such process being one wherein a false twist is applied to an assemblyof a core yarn and an effect yarn overfed relatively to the core yarn,the false twisted assembly of core yarn and effect yarn beingsubsequently bound by a binder yarn prior to disappearance of the falsetwist.

Such process, however, as well as all other conventional processes forproducing novelty yarns such as boucl, undulated and knop yarns requireoperation in at least two stages. The first stage generally comprisesthe assembly of the core and effect yarn, while the second stagecomprises the fixation of the loops or other variations with the binderyarn. The necessity of having such two distinct stages comprising twodistinct operations such as illustrated in French Patent 1,493,577 isdisadvantageous from an economic standpoint. Accordingly, it is desirousto eliminate such use of at least two stages and at least two distinctmechanical operations in a manner as to eliminate the inherentdeficiencies and disadvantages of such previously employed processes.

Thus, because in these two separate and distinct operations the twistsare independent and can be varied, any previous attempt to eliminate thedeficiencies of the prior art has involved the employment of controldevices which are rather complex, especially where it has been desiredto avoid irregularities of operation in the course of the manufacturingof the novelty yarn.

In accordance with the present invention, however, it has now beendiscovered for the first time that the inherent deficiencies anddisadvantages of prior art processes for the production of novelty yarnsof the boucl, undulated and knop type can be eliminated in a simple andefficient manner. Thus in accordance with the process and apparatus ofthe present invention, it has been discovered that the inherentdeficiencies and disadvantages of prior art processes can be eliminatedthrough the improvement associated with the binding of the assembly ofcore yarn and effect yarn with the binder yarn in the production ofnovelty yarns at the moment of locking of the false twist.

Accordingly, it is a principal object of the present invention toprovide a novel process and apparatus for the production of noveltyyarns, which process and apparatus has eliminated for the first timetheinherent deficiencies and disadvantages of previously employedprocesses.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a novelprocess and apparatus for the production of novelty yarns, e.g. yarns ofthe boucl, undulated or knop type wherein the disadvantage previouslyassociated with the use of a two stage process involving two separateand distinct physical operations has been overcome.

Yet, a further object of the present invention comprises a novel processand apparatus for the production of novelty yarns of the boucl,undulated or knop type characterized in the improvement associated withbinding the assembly of core yarn and effect yarn with a binder yarn atthe moment of locking of the false twist, i.e. simultaneously withlocking of the false twist.

These and other objects and advantages of the process and apparatus ofthe present invention will become more apparent from the following moredetailed description thereof and in connection with the drawingswherein:

FIGURE 1 is a diagrammatic representation of the method and apparatusemployed in accordance with the present invention;

FIGURE 2 is a diagrammatic representation of amodification of suchprocess and apparatus comprising the irregular distribution of effectyarn or core yarn;

FIGURE 3 is a diagrammatic representation of the process and apparatusillustrating an overfeed mechanism with variable excess delivery; and

FIGURE 4 is a diagrammatic representation of a further embodiment of thepresent invention utilizing a conventional spindle, i.e. double twistspindle.

As indicate above, the inherent deficiencies and disadvantages ofpreviously employed processes for producing novelty yarns such as boucl,undulated and knop type yarns has been eliminated in accordance with theprocess and apparatus of the present invention wherein such process ischaracterized by the improvement of binding the assembly of core yarnand effect yarn at the moment of locking of the false twist. Thus, theprocess of the present invention comprises a new single-stage processfor the manufacture of novelty yarns wherein a false twist assembly of acore yarn and an effect yarn supplied in excess with respect to the coreyarn is subsequently bound with a binder yarn before disappearance ofthe false twist. As indicated above, the process of the presentinvention comprises an improvement in such conventional process for theproduction of novelty yarns, such improvement residing in the binding ofthe assembly of core yarn and effect yarn with the binder yarn at themoment of locking of the false twist.

In accordance with the present invention, the locking of false twist canoccur only once or several times, this being merely a matter of choicedependent somewhat on the type of novelty yarn to be produced. Bylocking or locking of the false twist is meant the operation whichconsists in reversing by some means the direction of the false twist soas to cause a twist upstream from the lock point and an untwistingdownstream from the lock point. Again, as indicated previously, thelocking of the false twist in accordance with the present invention canoccur once or several times depending on the novelty yarn and effectdesired. Again, the improvement associated with the process andapparatus of the present invention comprises the binding of the coreyarn and effect yarn assembly at the moment of locking of the falsetwist.

As indicated previously, the process of the present invention comprisesan improvement in that process for the production of novelty yarnswherein an effect yarn is overfed relatively to the core yarn in theformation of the assembly false twisted and bound at the time of thelocking of the false twist. Depending upon the type of yarn which onedesires to prepare, the overfeed of effect yarn can vary within widelimits. Generally, however, the effect yarn is fed to the apparatus soas to be present based upon the core yarn in an excess of from 10% to300%. In practice, where the overfeed rate of effect yarn is defined asthe product x100 of the ratio of the linear excess speed of supply ofthe effect yarn to the rate of supply of the core yarn, it is preferredwhen producing an undulated yarn to supply the effect yarn of the coreyarn-effect yarn assembly at a rate of overfeed of less than 40%, morepreferably on the order of 10% excess. To obtain a boucl yarn, the rateof overfeed of effect yarn should be at least 40%, the optimum value ofover- Eeed effect yarn being supplied to obtain the boucl yarn beingreadily determined by a person of ordinary skill in the art as afunction of the operating conditions and the desired results. Again, itis generally applicable in producing novelty yarns such as boucl yarn,undulated yarns and knop yarns to supply the effect yarn at overfeedrate relatively to the core yarn of l300% In accordance with oneembodiment of the present invention the binding produced by the binderyarn can also be effected by the false twist. Thus, in accordance withthis embodiment, all of the lengths of the novelty yarn that ireproduced retain their initial twist in the finished product.

Similarly, depending upon the effect that is desired in :he productionof the novelty yarn the overfeed rate of :he effect yarn can be variableor not variable. Thus for :xample, it is sometimes advantageous forparticular effects to vary the overfeed rate of the effect yarn. Foreximple, it may be desirable to vary the overfeed rate from 1 valuebelow 50% to a value above 50%. Likewise, :he binder yarn itself can besupplied regularly or irfegularly and under certain circumstances can besupplied n excess.

In a like manner, the effect yarn that is employed in the :oreyarn-effect yarn assembly can be regularly or ir- 'egularly distributedon the core yarn. This is particularly me where a knop yarn is desired.The regular distribution )f the effect yarn on the core yarn wheredesired for )articular purposes can be most advantageously effected Jythe motion of free oscillation of the effect yarn in a lirectionperpendicular to the direction of advance of the :ore yarn. Again, it ispointed out that all of these latter nodifications of the basic,improved single-stage process )f the present invention predicated on animprovement n the basic process for producing novelty yarns of the)oucl, undulated and knop type by effecting a binding of l false twistedcore yarn-effect yarn assembly at the time )f the unlocking of the falsetwist.

It is quite obvious that the present invention predicated )n theimprovement noted above is not dependent upon he use of any particularfiber or yarn material. Thus, he yarns employed in the process and inconnection with he apparatus of the present invention may be anynatural, trtificial or synthetic material. Thus, as examples, the arnsemployed in accordance with the process of the )resent invention cancomprise wool, cotton, cellulose tcetate and similar yarns, syntheticpolyamide and poly- :ster yarns as well as mixtures of these with anyand all trtificial or natural yarns generally employed in theiI'OdllCiiOIl of novelty yarns.

Broadly, the apparatus employed in accordance with he present inventioncomprises a feed mechanism for at east two yarns with means to provideoverfeed rate of me of the yarns, i.e. the effect yarn relative to theother, .e. the core yarn, such apparatus is characterized in that tcontains a false twist element comprising a turning tube that bears asupport for the binder yarn, such support for the binder yarn beingassociated with a twist locking element furnished at the twist lockingpoint of a yarn guide. This yarn guide element can comprise any suitableand conventional means such as a traveller or eye. Of course, otherequivalent means generally employed in the production of novelty yarnscan be utilized for the yarn guide element in accordance with theapparatus of the present invention. The turning tube comprising thefalse twist element employed in accordance with the apparatus of thepresent invention preferably is a hollow spindle such as thatconventionally employed in mills producing novelty yarns. Such hollowspindle can be surmounted by a guide element furnished with an eyemounted in free rotation at the top of the hollow spindle or associatedwith the traveller of a fixed ring disposed around the spindle.

If in accordance with the further embodiment of the present inventionthe binder yarn is also given a false twist, it is advantageous that thetwo false twisting adjoining operations for core yarn or effect yarn onthe one hand, and core and effect yarns with binder yarn on the other,occur simultaneously. In such a case, an apparatus is employed whereinthe support for the binder yarn is substantially fixed with the twistlock element being furnished at the point of locking of a yarn guiderigidly connected to the turning tube.

In accordance with a further embodiment of the present invention, thefalse twist element or device can comprise a double twist type spindle.Such a double twist type spindle as embodied by French Patent 1,300,575presents at its downstream part an extension of the axial passage of thespindle, a false twise tip rigidly connected to the rotary element ofthe spindle. It receives in addition to a yarn that is axially drawnfrom the fixed bobbin mounted on the stator of the double twist spindle,an assembly deriving from distinct fixed supports for the spindle, thespindle being associated with at least one yarn guide disposed axiallyupstream of the spindle, causing formation of a balloon by the assemblywhen the rotor of the spindle turns. Again, such a double twist typespindle which can be employed in accordance with the apparatus of thepresent invention as a further embodiment of the present invention is aconventional yarn producing element such as described in French Patent1,300,575.

The device or element comprising the feed mechanism for at least twoyarns can comprise any conventional suitable means, such as a deliverer.In the case of variable overfeed, such an element or device can comprisefor example, a mechanism with electrical clutch control, or withmechanical control programmed for variation of speed.

In accordance with a further embodiment of the present invention, asimple means for the irregular distribution of the yarn comprises tworolls with controlled delivery rate, the axes of rotation of such rollsbeing staggered with reference to the path of the core yarn so as todistribute the effect yarn in a direction that is substantiallyperpendicular to the direction of advance of the core yarn. Inaccordance with this particular embodiment of the present invention, anadditional means is provided comprising a movable finger driven in areciprocating motion, such finger being disposed in the path of theeffect yarn downstream 'of the driven rolls and upstream of the point ofjunction of the core yarn and effect yarn. Such movable finger driven ina reciprocating motion exerts an intermittent drawing action on theeffect yarn, such drawing action or force being advantageously exertedsubstantially perpendicular to the direction of advance of the effectyarn.

In accordance wtih a still further modification of this embodiment ofthe present invention, the rate of rotation of the driven feed rolls forthe effect yarn can be variable and, in addition, such rolls can evenhalt momentarily. Of course, again, it is emphasized that all of suchmodifications and various embodiments of both the process and apparatusof the present invention can be easily selected where novelty yarns of aparticular type are desired for particular purposes.

With respect to the drawings, wherein like numerals represent likeelements.

FIGURE 1 diagrammatically illustrates the process and apparatus of thepresent invention.

According to an embodiment shOWn in FIGURE 1, a core yarn 1 is fed intoa false twist device simultaneously with an effect yarn 2 by means of adelivery mechanism, not shown, of known conventional type, causingoverfeed of the effect yarn relative to the core yarn.

The false twist device comprises a hollow spindle 3 with a control whorl4 topped by a guide member 5 mounted in free rotation on the spindlehead and having an eye 6.

The two yarns, core yarn 1 and effect yarn 2 are assembled by falsetwist, by passage through hollow spindle 3, then through the eye ofguide member 5 where the false twist is locked by the action of a binderyarn 7 coming from a bobbin 8 carried by hollow spindle 3.

The novelty yarn then passes into guide loop 9 before being wound on anyknown conventional device, not illustrated.

As shown in FIGURE 2, in accordance with another embodiment of thepresent invention, the effect yarn 2 is distributed irregularly on thecore yarn 1 by means of two driven rolls 10 and 11 which deliver theeffect yarn 2 substantially perpendicularly to the direction of advanceof the core yarn 1. The effect yarn 2 accumulates then on the core yarn1, executing a longitudinal oscillating movement on the core yarn 1.

According to a special modification of this embodiment, a finger 12disposed between rolls 10 and 11 and the meeting point of effect yarn 2and core yarn 1 or any other equivalent location impresses upon theeffect yarn 2 an oscillating motion upstream of the core yarn 1.

In accordance with still another modification, rolls 10 and 11 can bedriven at varying r.p.m., the revolutions even being subject to acomplete halt.

Such means can obviously be combined wtih means that produce a variableoverfeed for the effect yarn 2, as shown in FIGURE 3.

As formerly, the apparatus generally comprises a hollow spindle 3 drivenby a motor 13 by means of a driven whorl 4.

The spindle 3 supports a bobbin 8 on which a binder yarn 7 is wound, andit is topped at its downstream end by a guide member 5 providing twoeyes 6.

The means for varying the rate of overfeed of the effect yarn 2 comprisetwo drive rolls 14 and 15 mounted on a shaft that is rigidly joined to acounter plate 16 on which two clutch plates 17 and 18 are applied.Plates 17 and 18 receive their motion from two speed changers 19 and 20and from gears 21 and 22 and chains 23 and 24. These means of variationcomprise a programmer 25 of known type that acts by means of twosweeping elements 26 and 27.

This device allows irregular and controlled overfeed of an effect yarn 2that passes through the hollow spindle 4 at the same time as a coreyarn 1. The two yarns, core 1 and effect 2, then pass through eye 6where they are bound by the yarn 7. The product then passes throughguide loop 9 before being received on a winding system, not illustrated.

In the above embodiments, the apparatus comprises a hollow spindleassociated with a guide but other equivalent means can be utilized, suchas a fixed ring presenting a traveller, or even an assembly spindle ofthe double twist type as described in French Patent 1,300,575 as i1-lustrated in FIGURE 4.

In this case, a core yarn 1 is drawn with rather strong tension atoverfeed of a bobbin 34, passing over a tensioning device 35. It then iscombined with an effect yarn 2 supplied in excess by a set of drivenrolls 37 and 38, passing through an eye 36. The feed means for theeffect yarn, not illustrated, is of any known type.

The assembly formed by the core yarn 1 and the effect yarn 2 passes overa bar 40 which is rigidly connected with a turning plate 39. Theassembly is bound with a binder yarn 7 in a false twist devicecomprising a hollow tube 41 which bears a yarn deflector 42 and yarnguides 43 and 44. The binder yarn 7 is drawn from a bobbin 45 mounted onstationary bobbin holder 46, which is immobilized by magnets 47 and 48.The bobbin holder 46 presents an axial passage 49 for binder yarn 7.

The product is then withdrawn via hollow shaft 50- of tube 41 and thenwound on a bobbin 51.

The process of the present invention employing the apparatus of thepresent invention will now be described by reference to the followingspecific examples. It is to be understood that such examples arepresented for purposes of illustration only, and the present inventionis in no way to be deemed as limited thereto.

EXAMPLE I With the device shown in FIGURE 1, a boucl yarn was preparedby the combination of a polyhexamethylene adipamide yarn (polyamide 6 6)44 d. tex. (40 denier), 13 filaments, presenting, a Z twist of 20 turnsto the meter (t./m.), with a cellulose acetate yarn tex. (150 denier),13 filaments, presenting a Z twist of 100 t./m., overfed by 50% excess.Binding was effected by a 6 6 polyamide binder yarn (44 d. tex./40denier/13 filaments) with a 20 t./m. Z twist.

The take up rate was 6 m./min. The spindle turned at 6000 r.p.m.(t./min.) which corresponds to 1000 false twist turns to the meter.Since the spindle was rotated clockwise, the false twist produced was anS twist and the twist of the assembled yarns with the binder yarn was aZ twist. The product produced had small, regularly spaced loops.

EXAMPLE II Example I was repeated except that the overfeed of the effectyarn was only 15%, thereby producing undulated yarn instead of a bouclsince the excess feed of the effect yarn was insufficient to completelyclose the loops so they appear as undulations on the finished yarn.

The yams obtained by Examples I and II above do not present true twistbetween the effect yarn and the core yarn, since the false twist isdetermined solely by the rotation of the twist locking element. Thisrotation is imposed by that of the spindle and is transmitted to themovable twist locking element by the binder yarn. This implies that thefalse twist between the core yarn and effect yarn has the same absolutevalue as a twist that exists between such core and effect yarn and thebinder yarn. From the above, it follows that the final twist of thenovelty yarn is that imparted by the binding operation. Accordingly, thefinal twist of the yarn is easy to control and does not require controlof various independent parameters. This fact further allows a locking ofthe loops as in a boucl yarn or undulations as in an undulated yarn,that is sufficiently effective as to allow the manufacture of noveltyyarns with core and/or effect yarns of synthetic material.

EXAMPLE III With use of the device shown schematically in FIG-' URE 2, aknop yarn was made by combining a polyhexamethylene adipamide yarn(polyarnide 6 6) 44 d. tex. (40 denier) 13 filaments, presenting a 2-0t./m. Z twist, with a 200 d. tex. denier) 13 filaments cellulose acetateyarn presenting a 100 t./m. Z twist overfed by 70% excess. The assembledyarns are bound with a polyamide 6 6 binder yarn, 44 d. tex. (40 denier)13 filaments Z twist with 20 turns to the meter.

The winding speed is 6 meters/minute. The spindle turned at 6000 r.p.m.

The product appeared with regularly spaced knops.

EXAMPLE IV Using a device shown schematically in FIGURE 3, a noveltyyarn was produced by combining a polyhexamethylene adipamide yarn(polyamide 6 6) 44 d. (40 denier) 13 filaments, presenting a 20 t./m. Ztwist and a cellulose acetate yarn 165 d. tex. (150 denier) 13filaments, presenting a 100 t./m. Z twist, such being supplied in excesswith continuous periodic variations of the rate of overfeed supplyranging from 20% to 60% relative to the core yarn.

The take up rate is 6 m./min. The spindle rotated at 6000 r.p.m.

The product appeared with zones of continuous passage from the undulatedeffect to the boucl (looped) effect.

EXAMPLE V Example IV was repeated except the variations of the rate ofoverfeed were irregular. The yarn produced had very distinct zones oftransition between the undulated and boucl (looped) effects.

EXAMPLE VI Using the device illustrated in FIGURE 4, a boucl yarn wasproduced by combining a polyhexamethylene adipamide yarn (polyamide 6-6) 44 d. tex. (40 denier) 13 filaments, presenting a 20 t./m. twist,with a cellulose acetate yarn 110 d. tex. (100 denier) 32 filaments,presenting a 100 t./m. S twist, overfed by 70%. Binding was effectedwith a binder yarn of polyamide 6 6, 44 d. tex. (4O denier) 13filaments, With 20 t./m. Z twist. The rate of feed of the effect yarnwas 6 m./min, and that of the receiving spool 3.50 m./min. The spindleturned at a rate of 5,150 r.p.m.

The product had small regularly spaced loops. Moreover, the initialtwist of the various constituent yarns was retained in it.

From the above examples, it is obvious that the improved process andapparatus of the present invention allow for the production of greatvariety of novelty yarns, such as boucl, undulated or knop yarns andvarious modifications thereof in a single stage operation thus providinggreat economic value. In addition, it can be seen from the above that ata very slight cost various modifications of the process and apparatus ofthe present invention can be made which modifications allow for theproduction of novelty yarns of greatly varying construction. This, ofcourse, is greatly advantageous from an industrial standpoint since itallows for the production of a great number of different novelty yarnsat a low cost in a single manufacturing operation.

While the present invention has been described primarily with respect tothe drawings and specific exemplirfications, it is to be understood thatthe present invention is in no way to be deemed as limited thereto, butmust be construed as broadly as all or any equivalents thereof.

I claim:

1. In a process for producing novelty yarns wherein a false twistassembly of a core yarn and an effect yarn supplied in excess withrespect to said core yarn is subsequently bound with a binder yarnbefore disappearance of the false twist, the improvement which comprisesbinding said assembly with said binder yarn simultaneous with locking ofthe false twist.

2. The process of claim 1 wherein said binder yarn is additionallysubjected to a false twist.

3. The process of claim 1 wherein said effect yarn is overfed relativeto said core yarn at a variation on the rate of excess.

4. The process of claim 3 wherein said effect yarn is overfed relativeto said core yarn at a variation on the rate of overfeed from below 50%to above 50%.

5.The process of claim 3 wherein said variation in the rate of overfeedis continuous.

6. The process of claim 4 wherein said variation in the rate of overfeedis intermittent.

7; The process of claim 1 wherein said effect yarn is irregularlydistributed on said core yarn.

8. The process of claim 7 wherein the irregular distribution of saideffect yarn on said core yarn is due to the motion of free oscillationof the effect yarn in a direction substantially perpendicular to thedirection of advance of the core yarn.

9. The process of claim 1 wherein said effect yarn is overfed by 10% to300% relative to said core yarn.

10. Apparatus for the manufacture of novelty yarns comprising incombination, feed means to supply an assembly of at least two yarns, onein excess with respect to the other, a false twist means to provide afalse twist to said assembly, said false twist means bearing means tosupport a binder yarn, a yarn guide means atop said false twist element,and a twist locking means located at the twist locking point of saidyarn guide.

11. The apparatus of claim 10 wherein said false twist means comprises aturning tube.

12. The apparatus of claim 11 wherein said twist locking means isrigidly joined to said turning tube and said binder yarn support. meansis substantially stationary.

13. The apparatus of claim 11 wherein said apparatus additionallycontains means for varying the excess feed of the effect yarn or binderyarn.

14. The apparatus of claim 13 wherein said means for varying theoverfeed on the effect yarn or binder yarn comprises an electricclutching system.

15. The apparatus of claim 11 further containing means for the irregulardistribution of the effect yarn in said assembly.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,874,502 8/1932 Green 57-122,131,893 10/1938 Jessen 57-160 XR 3,382,655 5/1968 Wasserman 57-163,439,484 4/1969 Nalpas et al. 57-16 3,445,994 5/ 1969 Nalpas 57-12FOREIGN PATENTS 895,678 1/1945 France. 531,319 8/1955 Italy.

DONALD E. WATKINS, Primary Examiner US. Cl. X.R. 57-160

